where can I mount an eye bolt on the handle?

[Rick Leininger]

I need to load my Segway into my Chevy Equinox & have a hand winch mounted on the back of the seat to pull the Segway up ramps into my car. Works well, except I need to mount an eye-bolt or something similar into the Segway handle to have a secure, strong place to pull from. Don't attach to the bag attachment/bracket, it just pulls off the handle. Is there a safe, or no-no place to drill a 1/2 hole thru the handle. Any key wiring in the handle I should plan to avoid drilling thru???

[jgbackes]

It would help to know what model segway.

I need to load my Segway into my Chevy Equinox & have a hand winch mounted on the back of the seat to pull the Segway up ramps into my car. Works well, except I need to mount an eye-bolt or something similar into the Segway handle to have a secure, strong place to pull from. Don't attach to the bag attachment/bracket, it just pulls off the handle. Is there a safe, or no-no place to drill a 1/2 hole thru the handle. Any key wiring in the handle I should plan to avoid drilling thru???

[Bob.Kerns]

An alternative to consider, with both gen 1 and gen 2 (dunno about a P133 though) is to put the lower cargo frames on, and use a lifting strap through the frames. That should better balance the weight and make it easier to maneuver.

I haven't actually tried this -- but I do have one cargo frame on mine for use as a lifting handle, and it is very convenient for the purpose.

[segsurfer]

An alternative to consider, with both gen 1 and gen 2 (dunno about a P133 though) is to put the lower cargo frames on, and use a lifting strap through the frames. That should better balance the weight and make it easier to maneuver.

I haven't actually tried this -- but I do have one cargo frame on mine for use as a lifting handle, and it is very convenient for the purpose.

This would be a good course of action, plus as bob said it can be used on both generations of machine including the p133; drmarty had the i2 lower cargo frames on his at fest, and they looked great.
-segsurfer

[Bob.Kerns]

Actually, the ideal thing would be a PAIR of lifting straps, threaded through the front and rear gaps in the cargo frames (at least the gen 2 frames have an extra piece that the cargo plate attaches to). This would give superior balance and stability as you lift.

I bet the additional ease of handling would make it worth the extra few seconds to add the second strap.

[OregonForester]

Another thought too, (again depending upon which Segway model that you have) would be to buy a folding "D" ring on a plate (try looking in a Farm Store) and then drill the plate so that it will match the two cuphead screws on the front of the Seqway base where a kickstand mounts.
If you go this route, though, I would recommend that you take one of the existing screws to a fastener store and buy slightly longer screws. The base is aluminum, and you want to make sure that the new screws are "bottomed" so that you get maximum strength.


[edit] Oops....only 2 screws on the kickstand mount....

[Suzined]

I'd be very careful before using the CS as a lift/pull point. Some time ago there was considerable discussion of installing lift handles on i180s, etc. The idea was to prevent airline baggage handlers from breaking the CS. My impression was that the CS is not all that sturdy and is not stressed as a lift point. I've got no technical basis for this but in my youth I was taught to be cautious. Incidentally, Big Al's emergency duct tape CS repair remain a classic.

[jrwilcox]

The big question is still which type of segway?

Jim

[KSagal]

One simple thing that I did several years ago when air shipping my e-167, after I bubble wrapped it so much that it was hard to recognize, was that I put two cargo straps on the base, one on either side of the CS shaft, and they went front to back, and each one circled the platform, and both front and rear battery...

By doing it with two straps like this, anyone wanting to pick up the machine, only needed to hold the strap anyplace they wanted... Two could pick it up by either leaning over either wheel and lifting one strap each, or one in front and one in back each with a hand on both straps...

These flat straps were easily able to be kept in place for this trip.

I would not endorse drilling into the segway much at all. (I have done it, but what I do to my own machine is very different to what I advise others to do to theirs...)

The OP must offer the model number for any advise to have value.

[bentbiker]

I need to load my Segway into my Chevy Equinox & have a hand winch mounted on the back of the seat to pull the Segway up ramps into my car.
Rick,
If your profile is correct and you have an X2, have you tried removing the upper portion of the LSF and walking the unit up the ramps in Riderless Balance Mode? I can't believe that the Equinox doesn't have a sufficient opening.

[DesertSeg]

Rick,
If your profile is correct and you have an X2, have you tried removing the upper portion of the LSF and walking the unit up the ramps in Riderless Balance Mode? I can't believe that the Equinox doesn't have a sufficient opening.

That's what I was thinking.

If not, does the x2 have the little h5 threaded holes on the lower LS like the i2? Seems like that would be a good place to mount a couple of D-rings, although I wouldn't try to lift a Segway from anywhere other than the inside of the transmission mounts.

[Lily Kerns]

Rick,
If your profile is correct and you have an X2, have you tried removing the upper portion of the LSF and walking the unit up the ramps in Riderless Balance Mode? I can't believe that the Equinox doesn't have a sufficient opening.

I have a 2005 Subaru Impreza--a small station wagon. When the dealer delivered my i2, I asked him to demonstrate getting it into the car via the ramps. The handlebars obviously had to be removed. It still wouldn't maneuver and fit, so he removed the LSF and no problem. Then I had to get the LSF back on. No way am I going to do that every time!

So I decided to experiment a bit. If I remove the handlebars and then power it up the ramp backwards, it positions OK. Then I turn it off and I can maneuver it to fit. I made a padded felt cap for the top of the LSF to avoid any possibility of breaking a window... When I return the ramps, they fit exactly to keep the Seg in position.

To get it out, I maneuver it into position for the ramp, then turn it on and power it forward down the ramp.

A neighbor made me a plywood mini ramp to ease the transition over the 4" "levee" at the back. I also learned to place the handlebars/bag on the ground on the driver's side while loading the machine so I won't go off and forget to put it in to the car or run over it. No, I have not done either--yet.<G>

It is a bit of a pain, but it works until the day when I can afford to get a lift... or one is required. So keep experimenting....

[Bob.Kerns]

I have a 2005 Subaru Impreza--a small station wagon. When the dealer delivered my i2, I asked him to demonstrate getting it into the car via the ramps. The handlebars obviously had to be removed. It still wouldn't maneuver and fit, so he removed the LSF and no problem. Then I had to get the LSF back on. No way am I going to do that every time!

So I decided to experiment a bit. If I remove the handlebars and then power it up the ramp backwards, it positions OK. Then I turn it off and I can maneuver it to fit. I made a padded felt cap for the top of the LSF to avoid any possibility of breaking a window... When I return the ramps, they fit exactly to keep the Seg in position.

To get it out, I maneuver it into position for the ramp, then turn it on and power it forward down the ramp.

A neighbor made me a plywood mini ramp to ease the transition over the 4" "levee" at the back. I also learned to place the handlebars/bag on the ground on the driver's side while loading the machine so I won't go off and forget to put it in to the car or run over it. No, I have not done either--yet.<G>

It is a bit of a pain, but it works until the day when I can afford to get a lift... or one is required. So keep experimenting....

Funny, someone was just asking me yesterday how you get yours into the car. I had to tell them I didn't really know, I'd never seeny you do it, but now I know.

I, too, have elaborate rituals for how to set things up so I don't forget anything. Rituals for how to load it into the back seat, how to load it into the trunk, or onto the Segvator, or at my desk, or put it to bed at its charging station. Or the reverse, or various doctor's offices...Each ferry has a set of procedures. Each type of train. Each procedure is incrementally refined as I deal with issues or come up with better ideas.

At the moment, I'm transitioning from one pocket to keep my infokey to another in preparation for weather where that pocket won't be available. (I learned not to keep it on the seg itself after having to go back and find it in the dark a few times).

Part of the ferry set of tricks is to temporarily secure it, and go grab a seat, then come back and finish securing it. (Lean it against the wall, remove cane, hobble inside, find seat, deposit helmet, return and turn around, power down, apply bungee cords, remove bag, return to reclaim my seat).

Anyway -- however you lift your Segway, don't just clip-and-lift, but think about the entire procedure, and try to do it the same way every time. You'll have fewer mishaps, and be better able to think about how to improve the procedure.

[OregonForester]

[QUOTE=OregonForester;190089]Another thought too, (again depending upon which Segway model that you have) would be to buy a folding "D" ring on a plate (try looking in a Farm Store) and then drill the plate so that it will match the two cuphead screws on the front of the Seqway base where a kickstand mounts.
If you go this route, though, I would recommend that you take one of the existing screws to a fastener store and buy slightly longer screws. The base is aluminum, and you want to make sure that the new screws are "bottomed" so that you get maximum strength.
QUOTE]

I still stand by my original suggestion. Although I would never suggest that you try to lift your Seg via the small "D" ring, winching it up an incline using the ring should work just fine, that and you will not have to modifiy your Seg in any manner. The shearstrength of the two cuphead screws will be way MORE than sufficient...that, and the tiny "D" ring will fail well before the screws do.
I would also attach a small clevis to the winch line so that you can easily clip it onto the "D" ring.

[Bob.Kerns]

You know, this gives me an idea. A device with a little platform in front that you drive your vehicle onto in front. Then wrap your cable around your Segway. The weight of your vehicle is then used to place your Segway neatly into the back of your vehicle.

Sort of like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wVADKznOhY

[OregonForester]

I'll tell you what, Bob.
I'll be delighted to help you build one, if you promise to ride it.

[Bob.Kerns]

I'll tell you what, Bob.
I'll be delighted to help you build one, if you promise to ride it.

On second thought, I think we should turn this around.

Get something really heavy for a counterweight. Use a block-and-tackle arrangement and a Segway to hoist it.

Use it to launch flaming SUVs.

MUCH more satisfying and practical.

"Segway-powered device throws flaming SUVs". Sure to be a YouTube hit!