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#21 |
New Member
![]() Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Santa Monica, CA
Posts: 4
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Yeah, looks like it was time to invite the Campfire Girls! S’mores anyone? Thanks for the info. BTW, I like the form you setup to arrange the batteries and the polarity identifiers! It probably really helps keep things organized and error free. |
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#22 |
Junior Member
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Florida
Posts: 50
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![]() What type of tool/system are you guys using to spot weld the jumper nickle bars?
What I first started researching fixing my tool batteries, I read about a company that spot welds the connections. I never did glean what they were using to achieve that. |
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#23 |
Junior Member
![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2019
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 21
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![]() You can invest in spot welder or do another diy like here
https://youtu.be/b_kGgPVrcCI |
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#24 | |
Junior Member
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Florida
Posts: 50
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#25 |
New Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4
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![]() Would you describe how you opened the plastic case of the pack.
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#26 |
New Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4
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#27 |
Junior Member
![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2019
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 21
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![]() I haven't used dremel, instead I did it as on this video
It takes several minutes, preserves the case and it can be sealed back with silicone. https://youtu.be/zRLX3ElN-U8 |
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#28 |
Junior Member
![]() ![]() Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: California
Posts: 40
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![]() Hey all.. I purchased 2 - x2 segway's with dead batteries, both red lights. I was able to use the float charge method I read about here, and got 3 of them charged and working again
![]() Thank you rene_canlas I have one that still goes to red and just wont turn green. It is accepting a float charge and measures 62V prior to re-installing and charging on the segway, just like the other 3 did. But, this one wont turn green after trying the same methods used on the others. I tried several times. 3 out of 4 is amazing and im very happy with that, but you would think if the other one from this same set worked, why wouldn't this one too? So, I opened the battery case up and tested each cell and noted the voltage on top of each group. All cells within the group tested the same voltage noted. In other words, I was looking for dead cells, but there were no individual cells that appeared or measured 0, or a different number from any of the others in the same group. ( Im feeling this means something significant ) Like, perhaps the wire that goes to that specific group of cells is bad? Ive never done this before, so just talking out loud. If there's anyone who's been in here before, what would you do next? Re-solder the bad looking connections? Replace all the cells in the most extreme low voltage clusters? Photo's below and I marked w/arrow some areas of concern. Thanks so much for any input. |
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#29 | |
Member
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Ocean Springs MS
Posts: 242
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Don |
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#30 |
Member
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: uk
Posts: 127
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![]() Battery date is 16 january 2007
cell group 1 is bad 0.25v cell group 12 is bad cell group 13 or 14 is bad (can't tell which from you pictures) given the age of the cells, I would replace with new along with the worst other so called good pack, this way at least you will have two good batteries. when removing batteries, always remove the positive wire first, starting with the big red one and go around in sequence. DON'T LET ANY WIRE TOUCH ANYTHING ELSE when you have made, pruchased your replacement cells attache the wires in reverse order, starting with the big black one. If you're not really sure then let someone skilled do it, it'e easy to kill your bms board...or start a really big fire. hope this helps......... |
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