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Old 12-10-2019, 10:54 AM   #61
cvhsquared
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Default Did you get an answer on this question?

I am having the same issue. The battery accepts and holds a charge but I get the red light when plugged into the Segway. I get a beep from the Segway when I attached the battery but red light when I plug in. I have seen someone say that it might be possible to lock the BMS but that it can be unlocked also. Anyone familiar with this condition?
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Originally Posted by TahoeJoe View Post
Hey all.. I purchased 2 - x2 segway's with dead batteries, both red lights. I was able to use the float charge method I read about here, and got 3 of them charged and working again
Thank you rene_canlas

I have one that still goes to red and just wont turn green. It is accepting a float charge and measures 62V prior to re-installing and charging on the segway, just like the other 3 did. But, this one wont turn green after trying the same methods used on the others. I tried several times. 3 out of 4 is amazing and im very happy with that, but you would think if the other one from this same set worked, why wouldn't this one too?

So, I opened the battery case up and tested each cell and noted the voltage on top of each group. All cells within the group tested the same voltage noted. In other words, I was looking for dead cells, but there were no individual cells that appeared or measured 0, or a different number from any of the others in the same group. ( Im feeling this means something significant )

Like, perhaps the wire that goes to that specific group of cells is bad? Ive never done this before, so just talking out loud. If there's anyone who's been in here before, what would you do next? Re-solder the bad looking connections? Replace all the cells in the most extreme low voltage clusters?

Photo's below and I marked w/arrow some areas of concern. Thanks so much for any input.
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Old 12-10-2019, 01:15 PM   #62
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Default dead battery

When I opened up my defective battery, would not float charge to above 63 volts, and red light when installed I found several dead blocks of four cells in one half of the battery, o.2 volts, the other half seemed ok, all blocks at 3.2 volts, although I think there could be a odd dead cell in a block of 4 cells and it still reads 3.2 volts, at that point I gave up, packed it up and sent it to someone who can to capacity test the "good" cells and advise where we go from here, I know my limits....... I was very surprised that it had 63 volts with at least 16 dead cells!

I was advised to use heat rather than a dremel to open up the battery, very easy and went well, just use enough heat but not too long in one place, I checked how hot the battery pack was when I removed it from gorilla snot in the bottom of the case, they were stone cold although the case was quite hot, the layer of glue insulated them,
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Old 12-18-2019, 07:28 AM   #63
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by matchlesspat View Post
When I opened up my defective battery, would not float charge to above 63 volts, and red light when installed I found several dead blocks of four cells in one half of the battery, o.2 volts, the other half seemed ok, all blocks at 3.2 volts, although I think there could be a odd dead cell in a block of 4 cells and it still reads 3.2 volts, at that point I gave up, packed it up and sent it to someone who can to capacity test the "good" cells and advise where we go from here, I know my limits....... I was very surprised that it had 63 volts with at least 16 dead cells!
I had a similar problem, battery was measuring just over 70V but red lighting when installed. I opened it up and found one block of cells was measuring 0.2V the rest all 3.2V. It ony takes one bad cell in a block to drag the other three down, so you'll never easily pinpoint an individual cell.

Best option is to find someone else with a dead battery and hope their dead cells are in the opposite half of the pack to yours, then you can rebuild a working battery from the two good halves.

I have a couple of dismantled packs if you're interested, but they've been sitting around for nearly two years.
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Old 12-18-2019, 07:42 AM   #64
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Default spare packs

I will keep in touch about the dismantled packs, what do you want for them, plus postage, what do you have, just the cells or the cases and boards as well? depending on how things work out I may want to build up a longer range pair of batteries, depends really on how much hassle I get when using a segway locally, especially in the forest, not been out of my garden yet, it is an acre though! want to get confident as the footpath is quite narrow!
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Old 04-26-2020, 11:39 PM   #65
shmonoff
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Default

Does anyone know anything about these LEDs? They are flashing once every several seconds.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20200425_004053.jpg (197.6 KB, 83 views)
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Old 05-15-2020, 04:17 PM   #66
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I am interested to know about those LED's as well.
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Old 07-27-2021, 09:54 AM   #67
JS235
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Default nickel strip plates

I know these nickel strip plates are not made for the Segways, but they CAN give you a head start if it's your first time, or if you want to save some time, though they are more expensive than basic strips, plus there are no soldering tabs. You could always cut it and make the pattern you need. It just seems a waste to cut them after spending all that money. I stumbled onto these when searching for other battery rebuilding supplies.

You can search on "5p10s plates" or usa-ebay-item203215504210-or-item124482080481.

ebayDOTcom/itm/124482080481?hash=item1cfbb5cee1:g:jdcAAOSwoUBf0zQ b
(replace DOT with a period)

The forum has helped me so much that I wanted give back. Hope this helps. I've attached a pic of the plates and given credit to the two eBay items as my source.
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Old 08-10-2021, 03:07 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shmonoff View Post
Does anyone know anything about these LEDs? They are flashing once every several seconds.
Grüne LED = OK, und leuchtet wenn Akku aktiv ist
rote LED = Fehler, wenn sie immer leuchtet (blinkt manchmal auf = OK)

l.G. Roberto
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Old 06-15-2022, 11:35 AM   #69
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Default Help!!!

Hi, I'm an electrical engineer with great experience with building Li-Ion packs. But with segway batteries I have no luck so far! I have burned 3 BMS already so I'm desperate!!

I have tried to replace all the cells in some segway batteries but during connection of the BMS to the new cells the board gets burned.
I have tried starting from the GND and then connecting one by one the cells to the board and I have tried the opposite, starting from the Positive and connecting all the cells one by one going to the GND. In every case after around the half connections the board gets burned and I don't know why. I have burned 3 boards so far.
Can you please help me? In which order should the connections get made? What about the bridge connections between the two sides? I have connected hundreds of standard li-ion BMS in my life so the typical is to connect first the GND and then move one by one towards the positive. But this doesn't work here!!!
Should I start from the positive towards the middle. Then from the ground towards the middle and at the end connect the middle bridges?
Has anybody tried a complete dissasembly and replacement of all the cells?
Please help, I cannot afford burning another board!
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Old 09-21-2022, 02:28 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by battman View Post
Hi, I'm an electrical engineer with great experience with building Li-Ion packs. But with segway batteries I have no luck so far! I have burned 3 BMS already so I'm desperate!!

I have tried to replace all the cells in some segway batteries but during connection of the BMS to the new cells the board gets burned.
I have tried starting from the GND and then connecting one by one the cells to the board and I have tried the opposite, starting from the Positive and connecting all the cells one by one going to the GND. In every case after around the half connections the board gets burned and I don't know why. I have burned 3 boards so far.
Can you please help me? In which order should the connections get made? What about the bridge connections between the two sides? I have connected hundreds of standard li-ion BMS in my life so the typical is to connect first the GND and then move one by one towards the positive. But this doesn't work here!!!
Should I start from the positive towards the middle. Then from the ground towards the middle and at the end connect the middle bridges?
Has anybody tried a complete dissasembly and replacement of all the cells?
Please help, I cannot afford burning another board!
Alle 23 Zellen verbinden. ( = inklusive Brücke in der Mitte)
Minus und Plus (76V) an das BMS anschließen.
Zelle 1 an BMS, Zelle 2 an BMS, Zelle 3 an BMS usw....... (bis 22)

fertig
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