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Old 12-12-2006, 12:59 PM   #11
GadgetmanKen
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Default Looks good

This set up looks good. I think there might be a couple of other things you might consider.

First Murphy, (as in Murphy's Law) has got to love ya. You went to just three places where a wheel will leak air to six. : )
1. the tire itself
2. the seal at the rim
3. the shrader valve fitting at the end of the valve

Now an additional three more connections. Hope it works out.

But I do like how you connected it to the spoke cap. Its definately in the right location now.

Have you tried putting the stem cap in some vise grips and grinding a bit off the ends at the threads so then the cap will sit flush? If I'm not mistaken doesn't the inside of the cap also have an O-ring seal in it too? So getting it flush will help defeat Murphy.

Perhaps you could touch up the end of the valve that shows thru and or the cap with aluminum colored paint so the brass will not be so noticeable.

On the same note, I wonder if anyone has tried semi tire type extensions. Or even extensions from large truck wheel split rims? I know semi inner tube valves are pretty long but I think they are short at the beginning and elbow to a much longer length. But they are glued to the inner tube.

I don't know, but I think someone with the right taps could modify, bend, and tap the threads in some brass, copper or stainless tubing for a Segway,s wheel.
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Old 12-12-2006, 05:20 PM   #12
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I've been running my setup for about a month and haven't had any leakage problems yet, but you're right it does add some potential leak points.

Yes, the caps have seals also and the cap I ended up using was short enough to allow the seal and keep the length at a minimum. As I mentioned you may need to modify the caps to make them work correctly.

I looked at a lot of extensions including flexible extensions. I didn't try any because the room available behind the wheel is minimal and couldn't see allowing the possibility of a hose catching on something.

I have access to a complete machine shop but decided to try an off the shelf solution first. I really didn't want to set up shop to fab parts for people who couldn't make the parts. I believe this is a fix all i180 should have for your tires good.

As Dave mentioned in an earlier post, I believe the Schrader valves do need to be removed from the original valve stem and the straight extension. The Schrader valves are not depressed by any other extension so they would not release air if the tire was over filled. The valve just behind the cap obviously needs to stay. Thanks Dave.
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Old 12-12-2006, 08:05 PM   #13
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Very nicely done! Very smart! I'm trying to figure out a similar setup for my boat engine drain plugs. I'd love the punch the idiot that placed those on the engine.
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Old 12-12-2006, 11:17 PM   #14
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Default Valves

By the way, I tried to let air out of the tires tonight, as if I had over inflated. The air came out and I have all three Schrader Valves in place on both tires.

Don't know how it worked because I don't remember anything that would depress the valves

Oh well, you don't need to remove any Schrader Valves
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Last edited by flyoguy; 12-12-2006 at 11:18 PM.. Reason: Bad speller
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Old 12-16-2006, 06:03 PM   #15
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Default Rick's Automotive WEB page error...

Rick's Automotive Hardware is at www.automotive-hardware.com not what I originally listed. Sorry
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Old 12-20-2006, 05:08 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyoguy View Post
By the way, I tried to let air out of the tires tonight, as if I had over inflated. The air came out and I have all three Schrader Valves in place on both tires.

Don't know how it worked because I don't remember anything that would depress the valves
As long as the pressure on both sides of the buried Schrader valves is approximately equal, they won't seal very well. Even when you depress the outer valve to bleed air, the pressure on both sides of the buried valves is nearly equal. Despite this observation, Murphy will eventually seal one of the buried valves . . . you're probably better off removing all but the outer valve core.

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Old 12-20-2006, 11:02 AM   #17
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I installed another set of extensions on my other i180 this past weekend and had a chance to inspect them better.

Both extensions have a pin that depresses the Schrader valve below it. So in effect both the 'inner' valves are left open.

You don't need to remove any of the valves, but of course it doesn't hurt to remove them either.
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Old 12-30-2007, 02:54 PM   #18
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Has anyone tried this on an i2 wheel?

1) reverse the inner tube to point out
2) Drill a hole in the wheel
3) Add the extension

???
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