SegwayChat - View Single Post - i180 newbie

DanDaMan · 05-10-2022, 09:59 AM

Ok I have a bunch of updates and more questions, after spending hours googling and reading.

First, the red light I had was due my the outlet I had it plugged into - in short it was not plugged in and hence the battery was so low causing the red light and shutoff. After plugging into a working outlet for 12 hours the unit turn on and I got the green with full bars.

Went for a test ride - found that if I go slow (walking speed) I can ride 30+ minutes and still have >50% battery, but once I start going a little faster it goes to the red light with sad face and starts to shutdown - I tried it many times and this always happens. It goes to the red light and shutdown within seconds of going faster (but again if I go walk speed it is fine)?

So I started to take a closer look at the batteries. First, when I first start to charge my lithium batteries I get green charge light on both F and R, but one of the batteries went to red while the other eventually gets to the slow blinking green (suggesting one battery is good but other not). But when I removed both batteries, I found both at 82V suggesting both are at 100% charge. So I reinstalled both batteries and swapped (did this many times), and found that sometimes both batteries had the red light but other times both green blinking and other times just 1 green and 1 red. So in another words it is not consistent, but what is consistent is that in all cases both batteries would never go below 75V (even after the 30+ minutes of walk speed) and both would always charge up to 82V. Being both charge up, my BSM is good.

Even though both batteries are charging to 82V, could one or both still be bad, causing the error at a higher speed? If the batteries can still be an issue, can someone provide some details how I can test which cell/battery is actually bad? The PO already opened up both battery cases, so I was easily able to open one of them up (the one that originally had the red light). I pulled out the batteries with the pcb, and did some quick tests with my multimeter. Though since the overall battery was at 82V, I was not able to find any issues (if the battery was low voltage I would have easily been able to find the bad bank). But in my case with 100% voltage, what is the method to find the battery issue?

Thanks

05-10-2022, 09:59 AM	#3
DanDaMan New Member Join Date: May 2022 Location: Alberta Posts: 3	Ok I have a bunch of updates and more questions, after spending hours googling and reading. First, the red light I had was due my the outlet I had it plugged into - in short it was not plugged in and hence the battery was so low causing the red light and shutoff. After plugging into a working outlet for 12 hours the unit turn on and I got the green with full bars. Went for a test ride - found that if I go slow (walking speed) I can ride 30+ minutes and still have >50% battery, but once I start going a little faster it goes to the red light with sad face and starts to shutdown - I tried it many times and this always happens. It goes to the red light and shutdown within seconds of going faster (but again if I go walk speed it is fine)? So I started to take a closer look at the batteries. First, when I first start to charge my lithium batteries I get green charge light on both F and R, but one of the batteries went to red while the other eventually gets to the slow blinking green (suggesting one battery is good but other not). But when I removed both batteries, I found both at 82V suggesting both are at 100% charge. So I reinstalled both batteries and swapped (did this many times), and found that sometimes both batteries had the red light but other times both green blinking and other times just 1 green and 1 red. So in another words it is not consistent, but what is consistent is that in all cases both batteries would never go below 75V (even after the 30+ minutes of walk speed) and both would always charge up to 82V. Being both charge up, my BSM is good. Even though both batteries are charging to 82V, could one or both still be bad, causing the error at a higher speed? If the batteries can still be an issue, can someone provide some details how I can test which cell/battery is actually bad? The PO already opened up both battery cases, so I was easily able to open one of them up (the one that originally had the red light). I pulled out the batteries with the pcb, and did some quick tests with my multimeter. Though since the overall battery was at 82V, I was not able to find any issues (if the battery was low voltage I would have easily been able to find the bad bank). But in my case with 100% voltage, what is the method to find the battery issue? Thanks