S-
Yeah, looks like it was time to invite the Campfire Girls! S’mores anyone?
Thanks for the info. BTW, I like the form you setup to arrange the batteries and the polarity identifiers! It probably really helps keep things organized and error free.

What type of tool/system are you guys using to spot weld the jumper nickle bars?

What I first started researching fixing my tool batteries, I read about a company that spot welds the connections. I never did glean what they were using to achieve that.

You can invest in spot welder or do another diy like here
https://youtu.be/b_kGgPVrcCI

Thank you, as soon as I posted my enquiry, I decided to try google search and I found that one and more, including devices on Amazon. Neat stuff.
:thumbsup:

Would you describe how you opened the plastic case of the pack.

I see how you used a Dremel abrasive tool on one side. How did you open the other three sides?

I haven't used dremel, instead I did it as on this video
It takes several minutes, preserves the case and it can be sealed back with silicone.
https://youtu.be/zRLX3ElN-U8

Anyone rebuild battery before? Need opinion
 

Hey all.. I purchased 2 - x2 segway's with dead batteries, both red lights. I was able to use the float charge method I read about here, and got 3 of them charged and working again:D
Thank you rene_canlas

I have one that still goes to red and just wont turn green. It is accepting a float charge and measures 62V prior to re-installing and charging on the segway, just like the other 3 did. But, this one wont turn green after trying the same methods used on the others. I tried several times. 3 out of 4 is amazing and im very happy with that, but you would think if the other one from this same set worked, why wouldn't this one too?

So, I opened the battery case up and tested each cell and noted the voltage on top of each group. All cells within the group tested the same voltage noted. In other words, I was looking for dead cells, but there were no individual cells that appeared or measured 0, or a different number from any of the others in the same group. ( Im feeling this means something significant )

Like, perhaps the wire that goes to that specific group of cells is bad? Ive never done this before, so just talking out loud. If there's anyone who's been in here before, what would you do next? Re-solder the bad looking connections? Replace all the cells in the most extreme low voltage clusters?

Photo's below and I marked w/arrow some areas of concern. Thanks so much for any input.

Looking at his last picture, they are 3.2 volts, 1500 mah and made in March of 2019

Don

Battery date is 16 january 2007

cell group 1 is bad 0.25v

cell group 12 is bad

cell group 13 or 14 is bad (can't tell which from you pictures)

given the age of the cells, I would replace with new along with the worst other so called good pack, this way at least you will have two good batteries.

when removing batteries, always remove the positive wire first, starting with the big red one and go around in sequence.

DON'T LET ANY WIRE TOUCH ANYTHING ELSE

when you have made, pruchased your replacement cells attache the wires in reverse order, starting with the big black one.

If you're not really sure then let someone skilled do it, it'e easy to kill your bms board...or start a really big fire.

hope this helps.........