08-26-2009, 05:12 PM | #21 |
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If you just buy some non-drinkable alcohol, it's mixed up with <name of substance used to make the alcohol undrinkable>, so it's going to leave this behind when the alcohol vaporizes, as it does not share the same properties.
Over here, you can get "clean" isopropanol, which should do the trick...
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08-26-2009, 06:10 PM | #22 |
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Yeah matte black or satin black should match pretty well. its easy enough to remove it if you get the wrong one. Just go paint it already!
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08-27-2009, 11:48 PM | #23 | |||||
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It's always fun to offer your opinion on everything, so here goes . . .
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Other people's experiences are always valuable, but mine differs in this case. Denatured alcohol can work great as a degreaser when you are removing skin oils or mold release from plastics. I know because I've successfully used denatured alcohol as a degreaser prior to painting with lacquer, acrylics, polyurethane and two-part epoxies for decades. Isopropyl or rubbing alcohol - like you buy at the drug store - does not work so well, primarily because it can contain a lot of water. By the way, "denatured alcohol" is not a very specific term. The stuff I buy locally is primarily methanol, but denatured alcohol can also be primarily ethanol with other light solvents mixed in. In some countries or localities, denatured alcohol may include additives to make it bitter and/or a dye to distinguish it from ethanol that is safe (or taxed) to drink. If you're not convinced that "denatured alcohol" can be lots of different chemicals, look at these MSDS sheets and note the different ingredients and concentrations: Klean Strip denatured alcohol Parks denatured alcohol Green Products Co. denatured alcohol Hill Brothers denatured alcohol So unless you know exactly what's in your "denatured alcohol," you're probably much better off purchasing a solvent specifically designated for paint prep (see an auto paint store to obtain this solvent). Nowadays, I routinely use such a product and it works very well. Want to test your denatured alcohol for cleanliness? Wipe a clean mirror with it and let the alcohol dry. If there's a haze on the mirror, don't use if for paint prep. If there's no haze, go ahead and use it . . . and you might as well make the best (and cheapest) glass cleaner on the planet: 5% denatured alcohol, 5% clear ammonia, remainder filtered water (the stuff I drink). Just eyeball the proportions. This cleans off bugs, the chemical haze on the inside of your windshield from the vinyl car dash and just about anything else you can think of. As you will have just proved, it leaves no streaks. Don't use it clean the gunk on your sealed fireplace window though - ammonia is bad for the clear ceramic. There are certainly cases where I would not use alcohol to degrease. For instance, if I was preparing a rough aluminum casting that had lubricant residue from milling, I would not wipe it with a cotton cloth soaked in alcohol. A stiff brush and automatic dishwasher soap - similar to what John recommends above - in lots of hot water would be my first choice. Even then, I would follow up with an aromatic solvent designed for paint prep. Cotton gloves can be used to handle parts prior to painting. Be aware that they can leave lint or threads on rough surfaces and can easily conduct skin oils from your hand to a part. For that matter, latex gloves can also transmit skin oils (well enough to leave fingerprints) if you wear them long enough or produce enough oil and sweat. To avoid these problems, I use nitrile gloves. You choice of gloves probably isn't all that important if you're not wearing them very long, although lint in your shiny paint is really annoying. Quote:
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An easy test for cleanliness of your compressed air source is to blow some compressed air on a piece of clean glass (or a mirror) for 15 or 20 seconds and then hold it up to the light. I think you'll be surprised at how dirty untreated compressed air streams can be. For pesky, last-minute dust removal, I use a bellows-type blower designed to clean camera parts. It works great, it's cheap, and it doesn' blow anything except ambient air. Quote:
A lot of people miss the importance of applying a clear coat after they paint something with color. They'll see an auto being painted and know that the color coat is flat, so perhaps assume the clear coat is to make it shiny. Since many paints consumers buy are single-stage - or shiny - right out of the can, they assume a clear coat isn't beneficial for these shiny paints. That's wrong. A quality clear paint is far more durable than any paint with color in it. Clear-coating your paint will not only provide superior scuff and abrasion resistance, it will let you buff out minor damage without cutting through the color coat. The hand buffing I described above was done with a cotton rag and some hand-rubbing compound in about one minute. It completely removed the scratches and restored the finish to a shine that was like-new. Quote:
Glen p.s. - if you read this whole thing, you should go ride your Segway now Last edited by glen_d; 08-27-2009 at 11:50 PM.. Reason: p.s. |
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08-28-2009, 12:16 AM | #24 |
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I am under the impression that alcohol is an astringent. By that I mean, it attracts moisture...
I believe that if you were to leave an open container with 3 inches of 100% alcohol in it, and return later to find 2 inches of fluid in the container, most would assume that it was 2 inches of 100% alcohol and that 1/3 has evaporated... This is not so. You would likely have about 2 inches of 50% alcohol. Some of the alcohol that evaporated would have been replaced by the water that was pulled out of the atmosphere. These numbers may not be exact, but I believe they are close enough...
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08-28-2009, 09:23 AM | #25 | |
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Glen |
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08-28-2009, 10:35 AM | #26 |
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Thanks Glen D
I just have read through your whole message....thanks for the information.
I guess because it is is new (3 weeks today) I was irritated that the sage green came off the inside edge of the center console trim so easily (nothing more than a pant leg fabric) so that was what prompted me to think of using the black and then not worrying about it. Joe |
08-28-2009, 11:01 AM | #27 | |
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08-28-2009, 12:05 PM | #28 |
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paint
I used to us spray paint but it looks home made))) If you come close to the seg you see that it's not professional paint job.
We have painted i2 4 times at the professional car painters and then we got the quality. I costs around 200-300 USD for whole segway. Last time it was bright yellow and it was shinning at night |
08-28-2009, 12:13 PM | #29 |
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Thanks Bent Biker
OK, may be I will hold off based on your comments. I was thinking black, only because I had read in another thread that if you do it right and clear coat it you really won't have to worry about it and the sage green metallic is hard to match. I wasn't thinking the black would be a horrible contrast, now I will rethink it. Also the center console trim is not $15 it is over $40, Customer Service at Inc told me $41. Thanks again for the feedback, much like a second set of eyes catches an error, a second opinion helps with your thinking. Yeah, I agree 3 weeks for this issue is a bummer.
Joe |
08-28-2009, 12:13 PM | #30 | |
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Quote:
I used self-adhesive Velcro to secure the trim to the rubber beneath. A one inch round or square spot works fine positioned just ahead of the factory securing tab at the front edge. I cleaned both parts with (gasp) a paint prep degreaser, then applied the two pieces of Velcro and did not disturb the Velcro for 24 hours. That gave the Velcro time enough to develop a strong enough bond. Could you paint just the edge of your trim with black or some other color and leave the rest of it green and obtain a good appearance? Perhaps some striping tape could be applied to the edge to cover the chips and provide a durable surface. Striping tape is a very thin plastic tape used in lieu of painted pin stripes. You can purchase it at automotive paint stores or - in smaller quantities at a model airplane supply shop. Glen |
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